Happy campers man the van
April 7th, 2008 Posted in Pets Guide In front of a Sofala junk shop called Weird Stuff, something
weird is unfolding right before our eyes. “C’mon, Henry,” says a
man with a mullet, pulling a goat on a rope. Toto, we are
definitely not in Sydney any more.
Sofala is our first stop in a whirl around the state’s central west
in a nifty Ford Transit campervan. Driving through the Blue
Mountains, the good-looking home-on-wheels has been shown off to
friends, relatives and their small children. Everyone who climbs
aboard gets a case of campervan envy.
No wonder. The van, decked out in shades of chocolate and cream,
comes fitted with long bench seats in the back that convert into
one massive bed. There’s also a fridge, gas stove, TV, DVD player,
shower and toilet. Push-lock knobs on all drawers and cupboards
stop them flying open while on the road.
Power for the appliances comes from a battery recharged both
through driving and sunlight (there’s a solar cell on the roof).
The plan is that since we’re self-contained - we don’t need to plug
in to power or water supplies - we’ll try the free campsites
scattered around the central west.
The book Camps Australia Wide, now in its fourth edition,
helps in compiling an enticing-sounding list of campsites. Then
it’s off to Kea Campers’ HQ in Milperra to pick up the transport. I
almost gulp when I’m introduced to the beast - it seems as big as a
bus. After clambering up into the cabin and practising with the
ultra-long stick shift, I calm down about my 2.7-metre-high,
5.7-metre-long chariot. It should be a snip.
Nevertheless, it’s stressful negotiating the 15km of trucks,
trailers and traffic lights between Milperra and the M4. God knows
how German backpackers do it.
In Katoomba I pick up the co-driver - a David Attenborough type
who’s packed binoculars and his Simpson and Day bird field guide.
After a stop at the Blackheath bakery for pastries, we’re finally
on our way westward. After twisting down Victoria Pass, we zip past
Hartley and Lithgow and take the Mudgee turnoff. The roadside is
littered with dead wombats and roos - some spray-painted with an
orange stripe. My passenger says this is wildlife rescue code - it
means someone has checked if there’s a joey in the roo’s pouch.
The road to Sofala is brilliant in the afternoon light: golden
hills contrast with distant purple peaks. There’s a steep drop and
a sharp turn left into Sofala, where tiny houses are so close to
the road you feel you could reach out the window and touch
them.
We head to a campground east of town but, this late in the day, the
best spots have been nabbed. The Turon River doesn’t look inviting
- lime-green algae swirls lazily in the water - but it’s lovely to
camp among shaggy river she-oaks. As the day fades, cows mosey
through the place and roos appear on a hillside. We decide it’s
time to eat, too, and go to bed listening to the thump of kangaroo
feet and the persistent chirrup of Peron’s tree frogs.
After breakfasting in Sofala next day and checking Henry and other
residents, we point the van at Mudgee, stopping to inspect an
echidna that scrambles to the safety of a roadside ditch.
The Andrew Harris winery south of Mudgee calls for a stop. It’s hot
as hell inside the tin-roofed cellar door and after loading a case
we return to the Great Western Highway.
We’re on the highway for a heartbeat at Kelso before jumping south
towards Oberon. Flat Rock campsite is on the Fish River but, with
two parties setting up for the night, one with noisy kids, the tiny
spot already seems crowded. We push on to Jenolan State Forest,
where the scent of pine needles fills our nostrils as soon as we
open the doors.
Disturbingly, a dirt-bike jump sits at the campground’s edge. After
a peaceful night, we discover that 7am on a Saturday is indeed the
time dirt-bike bikers like to congregate for a day’s fun in the
state forest, which is there for everyone to enjoy, I know.
We go to fill up in Oberon, the area’s biggest town, where a guy in
a ute executes an elaborate figure-eight at the servo and cuts in
front of us at the diesel pump. It’s far more relaxing to stop at
Campbells River north of Mt David for elevenses. As the kettle
starts to boil, there’s a flash of orange among the trees - a flame
robin, according to Simpson and Day. The countryside around here is
a patchwork of old and new pine plantations, sheep and cattle
properties and the odd paddock coloured purple with Patterson’s
Curse.
Our last night out west is to be spent beside the Abercrombie
River. We park in a spot with a prime river view and make the
acquaintance of a couple further upriver. They’ve brought their
dogs for a few days’ holiday and have a problem - their pet joey
has hopped away. We’ve brought a spotlight and promise to look for
her at dusk. Meanwhile, we head to the river with a glass of wine
and take a huge gulp when an elderly kayaker paddles by wearing
nothing more than a G-string and a big grin.
At dusk a minibus full of young drunks turns up. They exit the bus
by jumping out the windows. Our neighbour has a word, nervous
they’re scaring away her roo. In response, they tell her they love
shooting and eating roo. They eventually go - leaving us on
tenterhooks about a possible later return - but the only noise
after dark is the sound of a .303 firing somewhere off in the
bush.
The next morning, a bow hunter kitted out in camouflage gear turns
up and stalks off into the trees. It feels as if we’re in the
middle of Deliverance country and suddenly we can’t wait to get out
of here. But our neighbours have good news: a passing motorist
found their roo safe and sound. As we part ways, they tell us the
name of their sheep property and how we can track them down any
time by asking at the local store.
Our last day on the road takes us past the huge wind turbines
overlooking Carcoar Dam. Then it’s time to give the Ford Transit
one last workout - a spin around the 6.2-kilometre Mt Panorama
circuit at Bathurst.
Considering Ford took out honours at this year’s big race, it’s
really the least we could do.
FAST FACTS
Kea Campers 2ST/TV two-berth deluxe shower-toilet campervan
rates start from $205 a day for five to 20 days’ hire, with
discounts for longer rentals. Phone 8707 5540
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